Preoport

Women’s Grade – Jack Handford

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Dress size 8 graded from 2-20 using Handford. 1″ grade until size 10, 1 1/2″ grade from 10 to 12, and a 2″ grade above size 12. The sleeve grade is the same for all sizes. The change in width affects girth only, x-coordinate of side seams and mid-waist darts.

The base is drafted to a size 8. The immediate issue with the grade is that the length becomes sloppy away from the base. Too short in the smallest size, and too long in both torso and hem above size 12. The fit in girth and the shoulder width is accurate, the bust level seems correct. If there’s an issue with the armhole depth it’s not obvious.
US size chart 2-20, the chest grade is 1″ bellow size 10 and 2″ above size 12, with a transitional grade of 1 1/2″ between sizes 10 and 12. This is a change from the grade chart presented in the text which is 1″ to size 12 and 1 1/2″ to size 20 .
The bodice center length to waist is increasing 1/4″ per size, and the skirt distance from waist to hip is also increasing 1/4″ per size, with another 1/8″ per size added at the hem. Reducing these quantities would control the waist level and hem length.

There is something about using the grade for the 5-piece block that isn’t correct. Time to recheck everything.

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