Author: preo

  • Gareth Pugh Balloon 2009

    SHOWstudio design download: 2009 Gareth Pugh Balloon

    Pattern pieces from download.
    Assembled in CLO with pattern images placed and line art.
    Pattern pieces
    Line art on textured model.
    Original constructed from thick, non-stretch acetate satin in red and white.
    Gallery Images
    Rendered in CLO.
    A 2004 design by Gareth Pugh Photograph: Fiona Hanson/EPA
  • Balenciaga Freebee

    A promo for the Winter ’23 Balenciaga show was a downloadable pattern sheet for a traditionally tailored men’s jacket, in the style of a pattern magazine insert. Here it is traced off and assembled with CLO. The pattern sheet is shown as the texture on a few of the patterns. (Can’t be all since patterns are provided for only one side of the body, the pattern sheet could be mirrored but this would just make things more jumbled.) Men’s size 50 is shown on default men’s avatar (possibly a 38T, or a little slimmer), the pattern sheet is graded, size 42- 50. There were some small errors, like mislabeled patterns on of the back pieces, lining and shell were swapped, etc. For what could be a gimmick seems like a pretty thorough pattern. It’s similar to the 2012 menswear cut, possibly a little less slimmed down.

  • Contemporary Dress

    A project taking an existing dress to 3D pattern and pattern. The dress has multiple narrow panels, but is really created as a single pattern piece (front and back) because at the hem the panel strips are connected and the excess fabric forms a turned back ruffle. The original was denim and sewn with raw edges exposed along each panel, and also at the faced edge along neck and arms.

    Original dress, size 8. Measured, recreated and POMs verified.
    Graded to size 16. Measurements and fit checked.
    Dress pattern cutting layout. The front panel needs to fit on a single width of fabric, but grading is still possible without splitting up the design.
    Contemporary dress with unusual panel construction. Recreated as pattern and 3D model.
    Line drawing

    Construction detail of the original. Interior is a clean finish (left side of image), Exterior has exposed raw hems. One goal is to better illustrate this effect in renders.
    Bubble hem construction (interior). Hem is tacked to dress through all layers at each gore.
    Raw edges can be approximated in render, which gets the concept across but isn’t very realistic. Same design with simple seaming, and large scale print.
  • Jacket 00s

    Free single size pattern available here: Design Download Yohji 2002. Shown here simulated in midweight jersey.

  • 30s Evening Dress

    Pattern from Janet Arnold Patterns in Fashion 2, Schiaperreli evening dress c.1938.

  • Retro Roses

    Retro Roses

    Kimono dress with contrast trim and piping. Pullover with side zip and optional belt. Side seam hip pockets. Pattern from a vintage dress.

  • 40s Day Dress

    Pullover dress with contrast collar and button placket. Reproduction of a 40s design.

  • Tees from the 90s

    Stripes were popular, and collars were high. Two old tees with simple details that evoke the style

    Tee with side vent, front welt pockets, and contrast sleeves.
    Saddle-raglan with contrast crew and matched stripes.
  • Back Seam Tee

    Clean front, and simple seaming in back. Jersey kimono sleeve top with shaped hem, and faced back neck.

  • Vionnet Day Dress

    Vionnet Day Dress from 1922. Pattern presented in Bette Kirke Vionnet and Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion 2. The pieces are almost all right angles, and dyed successive shades with gold couched embroidery between panels. The skirt is left open on the left, the bodice on the right. Pattern pieces wrap from front to back. The skirt is gathered to the blouson bodice. The bodice has a button placket on both sides, the left releases a tuck. Worn over a slip.